My defining show for Spring 2011 menswear season went to Raf Simons. It was a collection that summed up my aesthetic at the time, and still probably sums up my ideal aesthetic to this day. So when the Fall 2011 shows started to roll around, kicking off in Milan with the Trussardi 1911 100 year celebration(actually held in Florence as a part of Pitti Uomo), I was on the look out for a show to do just that for me this season. While I sadly couldn’t find one show in it’s entirety, there were various “moments” that piqued my interests.
Dolce and Gabbana as a brand never strays too far from their tried and true formula. This season, with the theme of “Eccentric Tailoring”, the collection revisits that formula of clothing for the Sicilian worker and gives him a little sprucing up. The new tailoring features a shorter, shrunken jacket that accompanies skinny legged, dropped crotch trousers (which were done in multi colored denim for the diffusion line, D&G).The eccentricity comes through most in the two sequined blazers; one in black, and the other in fuchsia.
Alber Ebaz and Lucas Ossendrijver have sent out yet another stunning collection for Lanvin Menswear. This one takes both an Old World and New World mentality and meshes them together to create a perfect balance. The cuts, and proportions are tampered with, giving the silhouette a rounded and shell-like silhouette. All of this contributed to a sense of mystery that permeated throughout the entire collection.
The Thierry Mugler Fall 2011 Menswear collection was probably one of the most anticipated collections of the menswear season. Creatively directed by Nicola Formichetti, stylist to the show’s music director, Lady Gaga, the collection was a surprise to most. While there were fun and creative styling choices (like veils billowing from the heads of some of the closing models) as a whole, the collection was made of very wearable and classic pieces. This was probably due to the work of Romain Kremer, who also contributed to the production. While Gaga’s monsters may be interested in the multicolored puffa jackets, as well as the black latex gloves, everyone else (including myself) may find a simple navy blue jacket with a strong lapel, at home in their closet.
Also Soho Accessories is giving away a gorgeous heart necklace by Danon (value $48). the contest starts today and ends on the 8th.