Every season there seems to be more and more shows, with more and more trends, touted by more and more designers. Even menswear is feeling the effects of the “commercialization” or rather popularization of fashion and because of this, the sector is being hit with more pieces, trends, and collections than ever before. But as dutiful writers we sift through all of this to bring you our favorites, and so the following are a few of my favorite shows from the Menswear Spring 2012 fashion weeks.
Burberry changed. Still going with an outerwear focused collection, the brand takes a swing at a bit of the trends and hits it out of the park. Creating a collection that feels a bit archival Prada, Christopher Bailey serves up a dosage of color, which ran contrast to most of the early shows in Milan. Lousy necked tops, lay over slim cut bottoms that tapered down to brogues which were most certainly a trend throughout the season.
The Calvin Klein Collection is always very interesting. The reason being, there’s only so much one can do with the sort of minimalist aesthetic that makes up the house before you become redundant, and well plain boring. Once again creative director Italo Zucchelli seems to skate by with a pass presenting a collection full of monochromatic silhouette driven looks. For some, the long shorts, which are a repeat of a silhouette from the 90s, were cause for concern, but in my opinion, it was a great length.
Givenchy is known for its edge. That’s what Riccardo Tisci has formed the label into, a sort of cutting edge bad-boy type of aesthetic that’s a tad unconventional. If one were to bypass the details they’d be convinced that this collection with it’s purple and green print leggings, man skirts, and bare midriff shirts was a complete 180 from that. But then taking into account the claw earrings, olive green, as well as the military belts, shirts, and even the key chains one can clearly suss out a bit of masculinity. One of the more divisive collections among Givenchy fans, this collection focuses on one print and a limited cadre of colors to comprise an entire wardrobe.
Prada was synthetic. At least that’s what it seemed like. There was this 70s Americano golfer vein that seemed to run through the collection but in a type of kitschy, stereotypical way as opposed to the authentic type. Each look came adorned with a foulard printed baker’s cap that was set to match any one of the other printed pieces which could be the scarves knotted round the waists, jackets, pants, or even the golf bags that some of the models carried.
After all of that color and convention, I bring you Rick Owens. To be quite honest Rick Owens is quickly making a name for himself as the creator of the alternative 3-piece suit. Each season Owens sends down skirts and dresses for men and each season they incorporate a ruggedness, a manliness that makes one question why exactly is it that men can’t wear these pieces? In addition, this season Owens makes his first foray into eyewear with almost opaque wrap around shades.
-Mikelle Street, Musings of a Gallivanting Boy